Tuesday, 20 April 2010

Latest round - up...

Action Direct sees another repeat

 Last week Gabriele Moroni made first Italian ascent of Action Direct 9a, the route freed by Wolfgang G├╝llich in 1991 and which still today represents an important test for sport climbing.

Moroni's ascent is now the twelth of Action Direct, and his name is now firmly on the list with some of the worlds greatest sport climbers.

12 ascents in 20 years, says it all!!

http://www.8a.nu/



Dream Guides Everest update

The DG team has been at base camp now for a few days and recently had the, 'puja', a ceremony to bless the expedition with safety and success.

Check out the DG blog for updates http://dream-guides.blogspot.com/




BMC Leading Ladder final

This coming Saturday see's the final of thr BMC's Leading Ladder. The final is to be held at the Leeds climbing wall and results will be posted asap.

Sunday, 18 April 2010

Dusting off the rock shoes on Dinas Mot

After the long winter season and the recent glorious weather, it was time to put away the axes for another year and dig out the rock shoes. We headed over to Dinas Mot in the Llanberis pass for some good, medium graded multi-pitching,  just whats needed to get back into the swing of things.

With the uber classics, 'The Cracks' & 'Direct Route' on the wishlist, we made the short walk in, (missed those over the winter!), and were first at the crag, which today was much quiter than i would have expected.


Dan got to work on The Cracks, and ran pitches 1 and 2 together, pitch 3 was mine and i headed from under the overhanging corner, up and right to be greated by a fantastic but grueling looking corner slab crack. This was the 3rd pitch of, 'Lorraine', it ties up with The Cracks above the corner, but looked that interesting and obvious, i  had to begin onwards and upwards. After a 20 minute wrestle, with very few features other than the hand sized crack in a corner i arrived at the next belay. Dan took the next pitch which involved a tricky exposed move, and i then had the honours for the last pitch and the much known about last couple of moves which have seen many people struggle to say the least, fortunatley being tall i could reach the top of the crack and didnt find it too tricky.

Next up was the 3 star, 'Direct Route'. I took the first 2 pitches which i ran together, leaving the most amazing long traverse of The Nose of Dinas Mot. Eveyone who climbs this route MUST do the same, it really does create an amazing pitch of climbing, Dan had the next 2 pitches including the final corner which was the crux and which also was tricky to start. Dan dispatched the last pitch in good time and again is a fantastic pitch and is always interesting.





A great days climbing and another fine day, lets hope it continues......

Monday, 12 April 2010

Piolet d'Or 2010


The Piolets d'or 2010 were won by Denis Urubko and Boris Dedechko for their route on Cho Oyu and by Jed Brown, Kyle Dempster and Bruce Normand for their route up Xuelian West.

Kazakhs Denis Urubko and Boris Dedeshko last year opened up a new route on the South East Face of Cho Oyu  (Nepalese side).  The route is 2600m and Urubko became the fifteenth man to have successfully climbed all fourteen 8000ers, and the ninth person to do it without oxygen. At 36 years of age, the Kazakh has taken nine years to accomplish this feat.


Other winners were Jed Brown and Kyle Dempster along with Scotsman Bruce Normand completed the North face of the Xuelian West (Chinese Tien Shan). This climb is long, complicated and technically difficult. The summit had never been climbed. This new route has been named, 'The Great White Jade Heist' and is 2650m long and is graded, ice 5, rock 5, M6.