On Wednesday and Thursday of last week, the Swiss uber strong himilayan mountaineer Jean Troillet,( who is 61!!) climbed a new difficult line on the north face of the Matterhorn. He climbed it with a french duo of Martial Dumas and Jean-Yves Fredriksen , and the route is named "Sébastien Gay" and is 600m graded at ABO.
Troillet attempted the route 3 years ago with partner Sebastien Gay, but the pair were forced to retreat due to poor conditions. A few weeks later Gay died in an unfortunate speedflying accident, and now Troillet returned to finish his route and dedicate it in honour of his climbing partner.
Troillet describes the route as the following, "The route starts steeply, the first 400m are almost overhanging. You have to see the plus side: this protected us from falling rocks. We bivvied on the face in a hammock. And as it's done on the Eiger, it isn't necessary to reach the summit to inaugurate a new route. The grade? Abo. Which stands for abominal"
Jean Troillet, Martial Dumas and Jean-Yves Fredriksen have carried out the first ascent of "Sébastien Gay" (600m ABO) on the North Face of the Matterhorn. Photo by Archivio Troillet