Tuesday, 29 September 2009

Coed-Y-Brenin Weekend...... With Video!

A group of friends and I spent the recent weekend down at Coed-y-Brenin in Wales, where amongst other things, we headed down to the trail center and had a burn on a few of the routes.
The trails we rode between us included the brilliant, 'Tarw' and the even better, 'Beast of the Brenin.'
Both trails are graded as 'black' trails, and both have some pretty technical sections, 'The Beast',especially caused a few heart stopping moments and with a section of the trail called 'False Teeth', i think i had good reason to worry!!

Wednesday, 23 September 2009

Gallery Updated

My gallery has been updated with a selection of photos from my recent climbing trip to the French Alp's.

Hopefuly a short movie will follow, when ive had time to put one together.



Saturday, 19 September 2009

Peak Sunshine

Had a stroll in the Peak this morning, in full sunshine too!!
We headed up Shining Tor from the Cat & Fiddle, then up and along Cat's Tor up to Pym chair. We then headed down the valley to Errwood, passing the shrine which is very unique indeed to Erwood hall. We briefly stopped in this beautiful location for a bite to eat before heading up Shooters Clough and back to the Cat and Fiddle, and just before the drizzle began!

Pictures above include one of the quaint shrine at Erwood.

Friday, 18 September 2009

First free ascent of the Japanese Direct on the Eiger North Face

Robert Jasper and Roger Schäli completed the first free ascent of the Japanese Direct on the north face of the Eiger in late August. The 1969 Japanese ascent forced a route up the steepest part of the limestone wall, with the aid of about 250 bolts. Jasper and Schäli free-climbed the 1,800-meter route at 5.13b M5 over four days, with serious danger from rock fall and poor protection.

Read more here:


Thursday, 17 September 2009

Clwyd Limestone

Dan and i had a last minute get together and headed up to Pinfold crag, a good spot in the Clywd limestone band near to Llangollen.
We had the whole crag to ourselves, and the evening turned out to be a pleasent one as the dull clouds fortunately didnt materialise to anything.

Care does have to be taken here, as with a lot of limestone crags as there is a lot of loose rock on some routes, especially the top out's!

We managed to fit in 10 climbs in between us, led and secconded, before the lack of light stopped play.
Dan got a couple of good leads in including an e1,5a! Whilst i got a few leads under my belt including a vs, 5a and a hvs, 4c after not climbing for 5 months due to my injured finger,( which felt pretty good btw).

Pictures above are of, 'Toccata vs,5a' and, 'Marander el,5a'.

Wednesday, 16 September 2009

Ren's Bungeeeeeeeeeeeee Jump!

Rene has sent me a short clip of a bungee jump he did at the weekend in Manchester.
Looks like good fun, and Ren's looking surprisingly relaxed too!!

Nice one!

Cheers Ren

Sunday, 13 September 2009

Amazing Chamonix

Yesterday i arrived back from the Chamonix valley on the French - Suise border after a perfect weeks alpine climbing. From the day we landed, to right through the week, the weather could not have been better. We got use to waking up to perfect clear skies and minimal wind, which to our delight held all day every day, pure bliss!!

Tete Blanche North Face
After landing in Geneva, transfering to Cham and checking the latest conditions at the OHM, we sharpishly headed up the Col de Balme and made our way to the Albert 1er refuge for two nights.
On our first days climbing we headed up the very broken le Tour glacier and climbed the normal route up the Tete blanche. As this is a very short route and it was still only 8.30am we skirted high up round the col du Tour, bringing us out onto the Tete Blanche north face. From here we traversed the face to the rock rib which splits the face in half, we decided this would be the best option as the bergshrund was huge and the other half of the face looked like it had some significant rockfall. The rib then made a good mixed finnish to the route.
The next day we hoped to climb the Forbes arete on le Chardonnet, this wasnt to be as the route was apparently very icy which would have made the ridge a lenghty undertaking. Instead we climbed the Aiguille de Tour via the Col du Tour and up the normal route to the south summit. This route was very dry and care was needed not to knock loose rocks onto partys beneath!

Valle Blanche-Helbronner telepherique

Pointe Lachenal
The 3rd and 4th days out in Chamonix saw us get a few more routes in. We firstly climbed a great little route which was the Traverse of Pointe Lachenal, which is a series of three small peaks which has a good mixture of climbing.
The route starts begins by climbing a 45 degree snow slope to the first summit, then a traverse of the ridge is needed to the second summit. Here a small abseil opens up the remainder of the route. A traverse of an icy slope leads to the base of a 45m chimney which is climbed to the 3rd summit. Finally a quick decent is needed to avoid any problems with the huge seracs which loom above!!

Pointe Lachenal 1st summit

Dan on the Cosmiques Arete
Later that morning we climbed the Cosmiques ridge to pass some time. As expected it was a busy route with a lengthy wait at the abseil and the small pitch shortly afterwards.
We stayed a second night at the Cosmiques refuge which meant another decent down the ridge from the Midi station, this at the moment is tricky as a good sized crevasse has opened up right on the path of the ridge, extra care is needed here!!

On the Gouter route at dawn

Mont Blanc summit
The fourth day we arised at 1am for breakfast at the Cosmiques hut. After we ate and got the rope sorted, we got on our way on the Mont Blanc Traverse via the 3 Monts route. Dan and i made good time as we headed up Mont Blanc du Tacul and Mont Maudit passing the countless teams which all attempt Mt Blanc. We reached a very cold summit in 4 hours which im pleased of as the guide allows 7 hours. We then decended the gouter route all the way down to Nid aigle to complete the full traverse in 8hours 45mins. The other rope party with us of Kev and Jeff also copmleted the route well under guidebook time, so all were happy!!


Our final 2 days in Chamonix were spent cragging at Les Gaillands, which is a beautiful accessible crag down in the valley, eating pizza and creme brule and generally relaxing! The weather looked to be becoming unsettled on the last day also, so we were very fortunate to have a great week.
Being out in Cham for the week has also inspired Dan and i, and gave us a few more amazing routes to look forward to in the future.
Le Rebuffat sw face is next!!

Cragging at Les Gaillands

Thursday, 3 September 2009

World record BASE jump - Burj Dubai

Here's a well put together short movie, filmed last year in which a Frenchman and an Englishman take on the worlds highest illegal BASE jump from the newly constructed Burj Dubai building.

Pretty amazing hey, just imagine the faces of the builders!!